When I mention to friends that I am heading to Japan in the winter, most assume I am heading over to ski. I find it interesting that so few folks know of the abundant wildlife and winter landscapes that can be found there. This Van Os Photo Safari is designed to highlight five species in particular – Japanese red-crowned cranes, whooper swans, Steller’s sea eagle, white-tailed eagle, and Japanese macaque (a.k.a – snow monkey) but we certainly don’t pass by any other creatures (or scenes) that call out to be captured in pixels (or on film).
Our journey began in Tokyo where we gathered to prepare for the adventure ahead. For those that arrived early and wanted to step out for the day and explore the city, we had a tour designed to showcase some of Tokyo’s photogenic locales – Tokyo Tower, a cruise down the Sumida River, the Imperial Palace Plaza, as well as a few areas for some off the hip street shooting. Besides, who can visit Tokyo without coming home with a photo of Godzilla coming over the top of a building!! That evening we met the entire group and went over the nitty gritty of the trip before capping the night off with a culinary feast curated to showcase a blend of western and asian elements. Needless to say, we all headed to bed quite satisfied and looking forward to collecting some fabulous images and lasting memories.
After a short flight from Tokyo to Kushiro, Hokaido, the trip really got started. We quickly changed into some warm layers and headed straight off to photograph red-crowned cranes before they headed off to their evening roosts. We arrived to the Akan International Crane Center with still a few birds lingering about and got our first images of these regal birds. Red-crowned cranes hold a special place in Japanese culture – signifying good fortune, longevity and loyalty to their mate. They are believed to be the “bird of happiness” and I am sure you would agree that they have the uncanny ability to bring a smile and sense of tranquility when watching them. Lucky for us, we had multiple days and locations from which to photograph these graceful creatures as they flew and preened and danced their way into our hearts and lenses.
All too soon, however, it was time to move on, so after one final morning with the cranes, we headed further north and inland to Akan-Mashu National Park. We had the luxury of staying the following three nights along the shores of Lake Kussharo, the largest caldera lake in Japan. The still active vulcanism beneath the area comes to the surface in the form of steam vents and hot springs. In fact, many people come to this area specifically for the medicinal qualities associated with these onsens, though we come mostly for the aggregation of Whooper swans. These birds, the second largest waterfowl in the world, fly south from their breeding areas in the taiga of northeastern Russia to spend the winter in these ice-free waters where an abundance of green algaes grow, providing nutrient rich winter forage. We had multiple opportunities to capture images of these stately birds in varying conditions from snow to steam to beautiful blue skies. But we should not forget to mention that this area also hosts a stunning landscape as well as a rich diversity of other denizens that call it home. While in this area we were able to capture images of Hokaido’s endemic deer, the Ezo sika deer, and a lovely variety of smaller birds. And we mustn’t forget our visit to Lake Mashu and its frost covered forest, which may have been the biggest highlight in this area for many photographers in our group. We arrived with some sun breaking through the cloud cover and the bright white trees against the stunning blue of the ice-free lake was breathtaking.
Before we knew it, it was time to move even further north and east to the Shiretoko Peninsula, where we could literally see Russia from our windows! It is here, in the small fishing village of Rausu, that we find a healthy population of Steller’s and White-tailed eagles. Historically (and still today), they would follow the fishing boats in order to scoop up whatever fish escaped the nets. As visitors, however, we provide additional motivation when we venture out to find sea ice and photograph them in their natural habitat. This year, unfortunately, the sea ice was beyond our reach but that did not stop us from capturing some fabulous images of these powerful predators as they hovered overhead, swooped past to scoop up a fish or assumed an intimidating pose along the breakwater near the marina. The weather gave us some exposure challenges but also provided a glimpse of the conditions these birds endure to make a living in this extreme place. Hints of sunlight reflecting off of newly fallen snow gave us an unexpected fill light, enhancing our images and lightening the shadows naturally. We also had fun capturing the speed in which these birds zip past by panning with a slower shutter and emphasizing the blur in order to tell the story.
Now, believe it or not, nine days had sped by and it was time for us to make our way back to Kushiro for our return flight to Tokyo. Along the way, though, we stopped to explore the Notsuke Peninsula for some landscapes, more sika deer and hopefully a few Ezo red foxes – also a subspecies particular to this area of Japan. After searching for a solid photo of these little guys throughout the trip, we finally had some luck locating two and were able to capture a few images before heading on into town. That evening, we celebrated our time on Hokaido with a scrumptious Teppanyaki style dinner on the 18th floor of our hotel in downtown Kushiro.
After an early breakfast and quick trip to the airport, we were on our way back to the main island where we boarded our private motor coach for the 4.5-hour journey into the mountains near Nagano. It is here that we find the only population of Japanese macaque that enjoys soaking in onsens (hot springs). Known colloquially as snow monkeys, these primates have an interesting story and close connection with the family who homesteaded in the Jigokudani valley (literally “Hell Valley”) beginning in the mid-1800’s. We were lucky enough to stay at the family’s B&B style lodging for a few nights in order to be right where the monkeys are. Literally, they linger outside the dining room and sometimes sit on the vending machine in the breezeway staring down at you while you enjoy breakfast!! But this also gives us time before and after regular park hours when there are very few if any other visitors there. We have time to capture images when most folks are still making their way into the valley or having to depart before it gets dark. This also means we are first in line when the park opens in order to have some prime shooting spots around the hot springs where the monkeys gather. Another fantastic thing about this tour is that we have 3 full days of shooting here. This allows us time to slow down and really look for interesting behaviors and intimate moments or revisit images we want to try and capture differently. It also gives us a wider window for varying weather conditions to enhance the diversity of images we capture. It is amazing how quickly this time passes and all too soon, it is time to depart for Tokyo and our final night together. At our tastefully crafted farewell dinner, we raised a glass to a fantastic experience filled with wonderful images and new friends. And, as always, it left me looking forward to next year.
